Tuesday, January 1, 2019

CQJP 2019 - 20th Century Ladies

2019 is here and I'm ready and excited to begin my Crazy Quilt Journal Project for this year.

As you may know I am a watercolor artist and crazy quilter, so it seemed natural to incorporate some of my paintings into my quilts.  My latest endeavor is painting fashion ladies from each decade of the 20th Century trying to incorporate the character, fashion and mood of each decade.  I thought it would be interesting to create CQ blocks for each using fashion colors and some of the fabrics from each individual decade.  It has been absolutely intriguing studying the fashions and learning what worldly influences and public figures affect the styles and attitudes in women's fashions.  Since there are obviously only 10 decades in a century and I have already created my 1900s painting and block it will not work for a full year so I have pre-planned how I will finish out the final three blocks.  You will have to stay tuned for those.

1900s:  My first painting and CQ block was done previously.  It was a lady for the 1900s.  Fashion at that time was pretty uncomfortable and unnatural for women.  It was referred to as Edwardian and included the infamous 'Gibson Girls'.  1900s ladies wore very restricting undergarments that cinched the waist tightly and forced the figure into what is referred to as a 'S' shape where the bust is forced forward, the waist tiny, and the behind extended.  The fainting couch was popular at this time because their corset was cinched so tightly causing the lady to faint.  Can you imagine!  Stiff high collars kept their noses in the air.  Other indicators of this decade in fashion included large, large brimmed hats, gloves, fans, umbrellas, heavy embroidered gowns, large single bustline (uni-bust) with a large flower in the center.  Colors were soft pastels and whites but could also include royal purple, blue, deep red and emerald green.  Fashions often included ruffles and embellishments such as rhinestones, lace and ribbons.  In other words, very feminine, delicate looking but constraining.  The 1900s and in previous decades Victorian etiquette and customs were very formal and included such topics as calling cards and visiting cardstea etiquette, and it is fun and interesting to read about the language of fans and language of flowers.   I provided links to some of these but it is easy to find an abundance of information on all topics relating to the Victorian period on the Internet and in books.

Influential people included Sarah Bernhardt, Lily Langtry and of course the Queen.  Auto Chrome photography was invented in 1907.  The Theatre was popular entertainment.  Dances included "Boston" Waltz, Two Step and the Chasse'.

Following is my first painting and CQ Block.

1900s Lady - original painting copyright Connie R Eyberg Fine Art

1900s Lady Crazy Quilt Block

1910s:  My next block and the first for my CQJP 2019 is the 1910s lady.  This period also is referred to as Edwardian.  Fashion was influenced by Japanese and during much of this decade and normally included a blouse, skirt, dress and coat.  The heavy corset was abandoned for a less restrictive style, replaced with a straight, more natural figure without the frills and flounces.  The early 1910s was defined mainly by the popular "Hobble" skirt.  I suppose this is where the term 'hobble along' came from.  The length was around the ankles and early on they were so tight around the ankles it was extremely difficult to walk.  This was remedied by adding a bit of fullness, pleats and slits.  The tops were loosely cinched just above the waistline, necklines were V-shaped but with a blouse underneath and sleeves were long and looser.  Colors were brighter and included colors such as purple, pink and peach.  Large often over-sized hats were popular yet, but the brims became narrower and feathers were quite commonly used as adornment on the hats.  I did a painting of a lady in this style but didn't include her in the block. 

Early 1910 Lady watercolor painting - Copyright Connie R Eyberg Fine Art

About mid 1910 WWI had begun but the USA wasn't fully involved until around 1917.  Styles became more practical with fuller skirts (called Crinolines and considered more patriotic and practical) and shorter hemlines above the ankles.  The Armistice blouse came into being around 1918 at the end of the war.  Hats were still almost mandatory.  The tea gown vanished from the fashion scene.  Fashion colors became darker going into the copper, grey, browns, black, still some whites, burgundy, deep blues/navy and gold tones.

Influential people included Mary Pickford, Helen Gardner, Theda Bara, Pola Negri, Isadore Duncan, Lole Fuller, Gloria Vanderbilt, Tina Chow, and Gretta Garbo.  Fashion designer Paul Poiret and his wife Denise who modeled his Empire line dresses (Lecallier) greatly influenced the new fashion.  Fashion, hair and make-up was also influenced by the Silent Screen, Nickelodeon and Movie Stills.  This is also a time of the famous Titanic.  When war started women became involved by filling in vacancies left by men who had gone to war.  You have probably also heard of Rosie the Riveter who led the way to women contributing to the war efforts and resulting in a new confidence by women.  Interestingly also, although men's fashion, a designer named Burberry was commissioned to adapt an army officer's coat for the trenches and the Trench Coat was born.  Popular dances included Castlemaxixe, Ragtime, Tango, Fox Trot and Turkey Trot, Bunny Hug, Duck Waddle and Grizzly Bear.  It is fun to look some of these up on YouTube.  I would say the biggest influence of this decade was WWI making clothes darker and less frilly and more practical and also leaving women with a new confidence and awareness of their own strength.  The Women's Suffrage parade was held in New York City and NAOWS (National Association Opposed to Women's Suffering) was organized.  The actual timeline of the women's suffrage movement is here.

Lots of changes during this decade for certain!  Below is my second painting showing the general style by around 1915. 

Late 1910 Lady - watercolor painting copyright Connie R Eyberg Fine Art
Here is the naked block ready for stitching.  It isn't a very clear image but as you can see it is a stark change from the 1900 block.  There was still some lace and trims used in 1910 but not near as heavily used as in the 1900s.

1910s Lady Naked Crazy Quilt Block
This month I hope to finish up the stitching on this block and get my lady painted for the 1920s block.

Happy 2019 to you all!


8 comments:

Lynda Coker said...

Absolutely fabulous. Thank you for sharing this intriguing information and your beautiful art and needlework.

Gram Cracker63 said...

Love it, love it, love it. Your ladies are gorgeous and perfect additions to crazy quilts. Wonderful!

NickiLee said...

Connie, I'm thrilled that you are getting back into Crazy Quilting as I have always loved your work. To now be incorporating your drawings is incredible! I just know your CQJP 2019 is going to be a Master Piece!
hugs
Nicki

Shirlee Fassell said...

Your painted ladies are wonderful! What did you paint them on to incorporate them in textiles? Your first block is dynamite!

Connie Eyberg Originals said...

Thanks for visiting and commenting! Shirlee, my ladies are painted in watercolors on watercolor paper. I scan them into the computer and resize them, then print on fabric sheets. Those sheets are used on the blocks.

lakenreich said...

I love your Lady paintings-so beautiful!!

Magpie's Mumblings said...

Connie - I absolutely love what you're doing with this project!!! Not only the marvelous paintings you're doing, but the history as well - and what's not to love about crazy quilt blocks! This is a definite heirloom piece!

karen s said...

I love your concept you have chosen for the CQJ 2019 Project. Your paintings are lovely and I enjoyed the history lesson you threw in for each block. I am motivated to put my Christmas quilt blocks I am finishing up for the 2019 journal project on my neglected blog! I will have to take a refresher course in blogging it has been so long since I blogged.